Pudsey, West Yorkshire – In the darkness of a shed in Pudsey, West Yorkshire, the Tomlinsons carry out a candlelit ritual to harvest Yorkshire forced rhubarb. This unique crop, grown in large sheds, is a tradition that has remained unchanged for 150 years. Despite the old-fashioned methods, forced rhubarb is experiencing a surge in popularity, with sales doubling compared to the previous year at Tesco.
The warm environment inside the shed allows for the forced rhubarb to be harvested during the winter and early spring. The absence of light prevents photosynthesis, resulting in a distinctly sweet and vivid pink vegetable. This method ensures that the sugar stays in the stalk, giving it a unique taste compared to outdoor rhubarb, which can be acidic and stringy. The Tomlinson family has been farming in Pudsey since 1880, with some varieties of rhubarb dating back to Robert’s great-grandfather.
The resurgence of interest in forced rhubarb in recent years can be attributed to a growing appreciation for fresh seasonal produce and traditional British cuisine. The vibrant color and unique flavor of forced rhubarb have made it a popular ingredient for dishes and beverages, including rhubarb gins, sodas, and preserves.
London-based food writer Thea Everett emphasizes the versatility of rhubarb in cooking and baking. She notes that its tartness and acidity make it a perfect complement to sweeter flavors, creating delightful dishes that can brighten up the winter season. Everett even created a recipe for a malted milk and rhubarb cheesecake to showcase her love for this seasonal ingredient.
Despite its popularity, sourcing Yorkshire forced rhubarb can be a challenge. Wet weather conditions have affected yields this year, posing potential obstacles for growers. However, there is a glimmer of hope as younger generations show a growing interest in the crop. A video highlighting the Tomlinsons’ farm went viral on social media, indicating a newfound enthusiasm among the youth for forced rhubarb.
The annual rhubarb festival in Wakefield is a testament to the vegetable’s significance in the region, with festivities including music, stalls, and the famous “rhu-bar.” The global demand for Tomlinson Yorkshire forced rhubarb continues to rise, with the vegetable now gracing menus in top restaurants worldwide. This international recognition is a remarkable feat for a crop that has humble roots in the rhubarb triangle of West Yorkshire.
As Robert Tomlinson reflects on the journey of his family’s rhubarb farming legacy, he marvels at how their produce has reached the tables of renowned chefs in New York and Paris. The evolution of forced rhubarb from a local delicacy to a global culinary phenomenon is a testament to the enduring appeal of this unique vegetable.